Where garden structure meets sculpture…my DIY obelisk.
There’s something satisfying about creating a garden feature that’s not only practical but also brings a touch of timeless charm to your outdoor space. We’ve made the most of this DIY project over the years, and our obelisk has become a firm fixture in the garden, equal parts sculpture and support. Whether standing proud as a piece of garden art or used for growing vertically, an obelisk offers a space-saving, tidy way to support all kinds of climbing plants.
From classic runner beans or adventurous climbing veggies that usually sprawl across the patch, this structure brings both form and function to your growing space.
Obelisk? For the uninitiated, it’s a four-sided, tapering monument with a pyramid-shaped top, a design that harks back to Ancient Greece and Egypt. Traditionally carved from stone and set at the entrances of temples and tombs, these monuments symbolised protection and power.
Our DIY version is a friendly nod to those mighty landmarks but built from simple wooden materials, making it a striking and practical garden feature. Whether you’re aiming to support your crops or add a focal point to your beds, this obelisk project is a wonderful way to blend beauty, structure and purpose in your garden.

 How to make an Obelisk
How to make an Obelisk
This project requires
- 4 x 40mmx30mmx2m Laminata post infill timber H3.2
- 10 x 19mmx19mmx1.8m Trellis beading H3.2
- box of 30mm screws
- spare offcuts
- post head
Method
Step 1: Place 2 x lengths of laminata splayed apart on a flat surface to resemble an inverted V. The top 2 x lengths should snugly touch together. Lay 4 x lengths of trellis beading horizontally across the two uprights measuring 300mm, 700mm, 1100mm and 1500mm from the base.
These 4 x horizontal trellis lengths will eventually measure 830mm, 650mm, 480mm and 300mm in width as they progress further towards the top. Allow a slight over-hang on either side of the uprights initially as they will be trimmed later to ensure they have a flush.

Step 2: Starting with the lowest horizontal length, drill a pilot hole and then secure to the laminata with a single screw at each end.
Continue to screw the remaining 3 horizontal lengths in place.
TIP: tack the two touching ends of the uprights together with an offcut to stablise them so they don’t move during this process.

Step 3: Trim excess horizontal lengths with a saw to complete the first A-frame.

Step 4: Repeat Steps #1-3 to complete a second A-frame.
Step 5: Measure and cut 2 x 850mm lengths of trellis beading. These are the longest and lowest cross-bars that will connect the two A-frames together.
Lay both completed A-frames facing each other on their narrow edge with the horizontal lengths facing outwards. Screw 1 x 850mm horizontal length to each side of the A-frame to align with the lower horizontal lengths. The edges don’t need to be flush as they can be trimmed after securing.
With the lower horizontal lengths in place on all sides, screw the 3 x remaining upper horizontal lengths to each side, aligned at the height of the others. There will be a natural gap at the very top where the 2 x original A-frames don’t touch each other (this is intentional – a perfect place to finish off with a decorative centerpiece).


Step 6: Trim any excess wood to they are tidily flush with sides.

Step 7: With spare lengths of horizontal beading remaining from previous trimming, screw in place a final beading horizontal layer, just a few centimetres from the very top of the tower. This provides a trim line.
Trim the very top of the uprights squarely with a saw so it has a flat surface.

Step 8: Using a spare off-cut of wood, measure and cut a short length of wood to be screwed onto the very top to create a plate. This project used a piece of 120mmW x 150mmL x 15mmD.
Secure the plate on to the uprights.
Screw the decorative centerpiece to finish, such as a post head or bannister knob.


Step 9: Sands any rough burrs in preparation for staining. This project used Resene waterborne Woodsman penetrating oil stain (exterior) tinted to Shadow Match.

As seen in NZ Lifestyle Block Magazine, written by me!


 
			 
																				 
																				