From Greenhouse to Dinner Plate: Growing Broccoli the Real Way (Caterpillars and All)
There’s something deeply satisfying about pulling a head of broccoli from the garden and having it on your plate just minutes later. It tastes better, looks fresher, and even the odd caterpillar or chew-marked leaf feels like a small badge of honour. When you see those perfect supermarket heads, you can’t help but wonder how much pesticide it took to get them looking like that. Meanwhile, your homegrown broccoli might come with a few friendly hitchhikers, but you know it’s the real deal.
This season, we grew broccoli from seed and learned plenty along the way. Not every plant made it, and some got completely chewed up by white butterfly caterpillars, but overall? A success. And the flavour? Absolutely unbeatable.
Broccoli is packed with nutrients, and when it’s homegrown, it’s even more rewarding. It’s a cool-season crop, so in New Zealand, planting in early spring or autumn works well. Best of all, if you manage it right, one plant can give you multiple side shoots after the main head is harvested.
Growing Summary
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Germination period: 6–10 days
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Harvest window: Around 12 weeks after transplanting
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Our method: Started from seed in greenhouse (early NZ spring), transplanted into the garden in November
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Hit rate: Approximately 70% success from seed to harvest
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Common issue: White butterfly caterpillars
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Solution: Garlic tea spray and close inspection of leaves
How to Grow Broccoli from Seed
- When to plant: Early spring or late summer
- Where: In trays or seedling pots, ideally undercover (we used our greenhouse)
- How: Sow seeds 0.5–1 cm deep in moist seed-raising mix
- Tip: Broccoli likes cooler weather, so don’t delay spring planting
- Transplant Seedlings: After 4–6 weeks, when seedlings are about 10–15 cm tall and have at least two sets of true leaves, transplant them into your garden bed.
- Spacing: Leave around 40–50 cm between plants and rows
- Broccoli prefers full sun, but appreciates a little shelter from strong wind.
Any time is a good time to pick broccoli. Don’t panic if it flowers: The yellow-stemmed florets and even the flowers are completely edible. In fact, they’re slightly sweet and look gorgeous on a dinner plate.
We transplanted some into a garden bed with a fine netting tunnel (for pest protection) and others next to runner beans. Both were affected by white butterfly caterpillars, proving they’re persistent little munchers wherever they are. Do not move the plant once florets start forming. We tried and it immediately stunted growth. Lesson learned.
Dealing with Broccoli Pests
White Butterfly Caterpillars love broccoli leaves, and once they settle in, they’re hard to control without constant vigilance.
- Signs: Holes in leaves, visible green caterpillars, or white eggs on leaf undersides
- Organic method: Make a garlic spray (blend garlic, a bit of oil, and water, let it sit, then strain and spray). Reapply after rain or every few days
- Physical check: Gently run fingers under leaves each day to remove eggs or caterpillars
- Netting: Use fine mesh netting to prevent butterflies from laying eggs in the first place.
Broccoli isn’t a quick crop, and it does ask for a bit of patience and pest management. But once you’ve got the hang of it—and figure out the soil, spacing, and a good pest routine—it becomes a staple in the garden.
There’s also something oddly satisfying about harvesting food that isn’t perfect. A few holes in the leaves, a couple of friendly caterpillars you evicted earlier, and a harvest that’s as real and unpolished as it gets. That’s when you know you’re really growing food—not just copying the supermarket.
So if you’re thinking of trying your hand at broccoli, we say go for it. Just keep the garlic tea close and your expectations flexible.
