Making a Propagation Station

Starting Strong: Build Your Own Propagation Station

The warm, weather-resistant, pest-free environment of a greenhouse is ideal for germinating seeds. But not everyone has the space for a full-sized structure, let’s face it. For smaller gardens, a propagation station offers the same benefits in a compact, manageable format. It’s perfect for giving seeds and cuttings the strong start they need.

The station I’ve built is sturdy and made from new materials, but this is the kind of project that invites creativity and resourcefulness. It’s built at waist height for easy access (and easier on the knees and back) and features UV-stable plastic and mesh sides to allow ventilation while protecting young plants from weather and pests.

Recycle and upcycle where you can! If you’re looking to create your own version, there are plenty of ways to make it work with what you already have.

An old dresser drawer on legs can become a functional seed bed.
A disused barbecue frame or an outdoor table can be repurposed into the stand, with mesh or clear panels added on top.
Even an old rabbit hutch, crate, or wooden pallet can be cleverly adapted into a propagation box.
Repurpose insect netting, plastic, old kitchen handles and wood offcuts where possible.

The key is to create a space that holds warmth, allows airflow, and keeps delicate seedlings safe from most pests and pesky birds. Whether you’re starting tomatoes in spring or striking softwood cuttings later in the season, a DIY propagation station helps you get ahead without the need for a full greenhouse.

With this design, there’s a shelf beneath for all your handy gardening tools (think watering can, hand tools, etc).

Plans for my build follow, but feel free to adapt the idea to suit your space and materials. Often the most effective garden solutions come from what’s already on hand.

Building a Propagation Station

Materials we used

18m of 45x45mm gauged wood, cut into lengths of 4 x 1m, 4 x 1.2m, 6 x 300mm, 4 x 1110mm and 2 x 390mm
48 x 75mm galvanised countersunk head timber screws – for 45x45mm framing
10m of 35x88mm standard decking timber
88 x 63mm screws for decking timber
8 x 38mm L-brackets
roll of 910mm x 2050mm aluminum insect screen or wire mesh
2m x 0.5m plastic polythene or glasshouse woven plastic
2 x 70mm hinges
12 x 8g x 16mm timber screws for hinges
kitchen cupboard handle of your choice

Method

Step 1: To make front frame side, lay 2 x 1m lengths of 45x45mm in parallel on the floor, then place 2 x 1.2m lengths on top to form a giant H shape. Adjust the top lengths so that one is 45mm and the other is 670mm from the base of the lengths beneath. Affix each connecting length with 2 x 75mm screws. Repeat to make an identical back frame side.

Step 2: Stand frames upright to face each other; the horizontal lengths facing inwards. Chock with blocks so they stand self-supported. While it will seem to be unstable, this is temporary when the shelves are screwed in place.

Step 3: To make shelves, cut decking into 22 lengths of 390mm slats. To make the lower shelf: place 11 slats between front and back frames, resting on the lower horizontal supports. Evenly space slats (about 12mm between each) and adjust where necessary; edges of the slats to sit flush with outside legs of the frame. Screw slats into place with 4 x 65mm screws per slat. The lower shelf is now complete.

Step 4: To make the upper shelf, repeat as above with remaining 11 slats evenly spaced; screw into place. Clamps will help keep upper shelf square while making necessary adjustments.

For strength and rigidity, screw an L-bracket into each corner under top shelf connecting the horizontal length with each adjoining vertical leg. The upper shelf is now complete.

Step 5: To begin to make the frame of the seedling box on the top shelf, screw a 300mm x 45x45mm length of timber onto each narrow end of the frame to box in the upper shelf and top of frame. Repeat on other side.

Screw a 1110m length of 45x45mm onto each long side of the top frame. The seedling box frame is complete. For strength and rigidity, screw an L-bracket into each corner under the top of the frame connecting the horizontal length with each adjoining vertical leg.

Step 6: It’s time to attach the mesh to the seedling frame. Use a Stanley knife to cut 2 x 1170x270mm pieces of mesh for longer sides and 2 x 360x270mm for ends. Staple to outside of upper shelf, enclosing all 4 sides (but leaving the top open as we have yet to build the lid).

Step 7: Create the lid frame by screwing 2 x 390mm and 2 x 1110mm lengths of wood together to fit top of frame with 8 x 75mm screws.

Step 8: Cover the top of the lid with UV plastic. Cut and attach 1.2×0.5m plastic over the outside of lid, stapling beneath and trimming where necessary.